Connect with us

Latest News

Kitchen Design for luxury living



Kitchen Design for luxury living

Before starting the design process, the most important thing is to understand how the kitchen is going to be used. This is a basic approach that any architect must take. A kitchen can’t be just a leftover space or a space to be defined at the end of a project. Designers must understand that a kitchen has various flows and different work areas that need to be integrated throughout the entire project.

Beyond the style or kitchen design requested by the client, it’s important to define a module to optimize performance and minimize the manufacturing costs of the different pieces. This way, measurements of all the components of a kitchen are set before defining the space that will house them.

Workspaces and Flow

There are a number of studies that have defined 5 general areas in a kitchen:

  • Pantry area: food storage space, canned goods, refrigerator
  • Storage area: appliances, utensils, cookware
  • Sink area: cleaning area
  • Preparation area: ideally a large counter space to work on
  • Cooking area: stove and oven.

The pantry, sink, preparation and cooking areas are permanently combined and related to the process of preparing a meal in the most efficient way possible. The sink, preparation and cooking areas produce a narrow triangular work area, which leads to different types of kitchens.

Types of Kitchen

This is related to the space that the design is intended for. The most commonly used types include:

  • Linear (or two parallel lines)
  • L-shaped
  • U-shaped

In relation to these configurations, it is important to understand how the different flows of movement work. The “work triangle” should be kept smooth, avoiding crossing movements when more than one person is working. At this point it is always good to ask yourself “How would I like to use my own kitchen?” or “What do I like or dislike the most about my current kitchen?” This way we can design our spaces with more sense.


At the beginning of the design and development of the floor plans, you should remember that the kitchen is not just a random binding of a series of furniture and appliances, but is made up of modules that must follow a manufacturing logic. If the design is not clear or doesn’t follow certain reasonable building parameters, it can generate conflict between the architect and the furniture manufacturer.

Therefore, the floor plan must be directly related to the upper areas of the room, and any appliances that are incorporated into the project must match the modulation.

A module consists of the following elements:

  • Lower Module: 1 bottom / 1 back / 2 sides / 1 shelf / 1 or 2 door / base / frame bars
  • Upper Module: 1 bottom / 1 back / 2 sides / 1 top / 1 shelf / 1 or 2 doors / frame bars
  • Tower Module 1 bottom / 1 back / 2 sides / 1 top / series of shelves and doors / base

To avoid problems, modulation should be a design condition that way no appliances can be placed incorrectly. The appliances must be fitted into a single module, to avoid placing them between two different modules. For example, you can’t put a dishwasher, an oven or cooktop in between two modules. If this is done, you won’t have anywhere else to place them (since there wouldn’t be support), and that makes installing other elements like plumbing and electrical conduits more difficult.

One of the biggest mistakes during the designing process happens while looking for symmetry. For example, when designing a base cabinet architects tend to draw vertical lines to indicate a separation of a module and its doors. Different sized parts are left between them in order to find symmetry.

It is essential to understand that the more times you repeat the exact measurement of the module, the easier it will be to construct and install the cabinets. The standardization of measurements is 100% related to the cost that the final project will have and is the difference between a project that’s doable and one that isn’t.

Standard Dimensions

Measurements are always related to the appliances and, in some cases, with the hardware available on the market with measurements that were already designed to fit kitchen furniture.


The standard widths of a module are variable and depend on the use that each module has. Usually, they tend to work in round measurements 30cm, 45cm, 50cm, 60cm, 75cm, 80cm, 90cm, 100cm — all measures are considered to be from outer edge to outer edge of the module.

When thinking about the appliances, the modules are generally 60cm and 90cm for microwave ovens, cooktops, and exhausts. An oven, for example, measures a little less than 60cm and is designed to fit neatly into a 60cm gap including the sides. In the case of the sink, it depends on the drilling that you need to do on the counter and if you’re going to mount the sink above or below the countertop. There are models of sinks ranging from 30cm to 90cm wide. The gap between the module and the appliance must be a few extra centimeters. It doesn’t matter if the strain-board section of the sink is supported by one or more modules if it is mounted above the countertop.

The hardware you wish to use will also have an impact on the width of a module. Hinges are used mostly on modules with doors while drawers require drawer slides. The hinges can really impact the module width. In the case of drawers, the hardware also defines the width of the drawer. Traditional drawer slides are made for drawers in sizes of 40cm, 50cm or 60cm, while more advanced drawer slides allow for drawers up to 120cm in width. It is important to understand that the more advanced drawer slides, like soft close ones, cost more so it’s recommended to use the longest ones possible. There are other types of accessories that can make a kitchen appear more stylish, like spice racks (15cm to 20cm), organizers (40cm to 60cm), dish racks (hanging units 40cm to 85cm) etc. Save this picture!

ase modules have a standard depth of 60cm. This measurement takes into consideration that the sides have a width of 58cm and adds another 1.8cm for the width of the door. The countertop should always exceed the measure of the depth of the module so that if something is spilled on the counter, the liquid does not drip directly onto the wood. The depth of the module may decrease for spaces that don’t include appliances. However, we do not recommend decreasing depth as it generally applies to kitchen solutions that weren’t well thought out to begin with. 

In the case of upper modules there are two different sizes to work with: 30cm or 35cm, both serve different intended purposes. When using a built-in microwave design it is important to remember that the bottom should be at least 35cm, in order to leave some extra room. In the case of a module using a depth of 30cm for the microwave, the bottom should extend at least 5cm.

For towers, it is recommended to use the same depth of the base, ideally 60cm. When considering an oven within the tower, it must be exactly 60cm deep. It is important to keep in mind that the oven needs a space of about 10cm going all the way up to the ceiling to allow for the heat to be released in the back. Currently, there are ovens that do not require this opening so it is always important to check the specifications of each device before considering the design of the module.

For the base modules, the height is generally 90cm from the floor to the countertop. The modules must never have direct contact with the floor due to moisture, with the allotted space being between 10cm and 15cm. There are series of adjustable legs on the market that allow adjustments for floors that are not 100% level. These can ultimately be closed with a baseboard, which tends to be a piece of chipboard or plywood covered with formic. The baseboard must have a recess of at least 7.5cm from the edge of the doors. There is the option of leaving the legs in full sight but it isn’t recommended because that tends to be a place where dust accumulates.

In the case of the upper modules, these are anchored to the wall and must be placed at a height of 1.40 – 1.50 meters from the floor. This measurement is 100% related to the depth of the base module. The lower the depth of the base, the greater the recommended height of the upper modules. This creates a workspace where the top module is not an obstacle. It is important to consider the recommendations of the air exhaust using it in the project, as each one has a specified volume of air extraction that is dependent on its distance from the counter.


Like the appliances, all products and materials have a standard size and this is essential for getting the best possible performance out of them.

Shelving and Doors

Prism TFL is the main material used for the construction of kitchen cabinets and it is also used to make shelves and doors. It is a very efficient material, as its estimated lifetime is longer than that of the kitchen itself, ranging from 10 to 15 years. A cabinet structure can be manufactured using melamine 15mm thick, while for doors the recommended measurement is 18mm thick. This thickness works better when making holes for the hinges. If you want to prolong the life of a kitchen, you can make a design that allows for change only to the doors while keeping the structures. This way you can update the look of the kitchen at a lower cost.

Latest News

Advice On Extending The Life Of Your Memory Foam Bed



Advice On Extending The Life Of Your Memory Foam Bed

The ultra-absorbent polyurethane foam used to produce memory foam mattresses sometimes referred to as “synthetic viscoelastic foam,” provides pliable support that makes lying on one feel like lying on a cloud. Given that NASA developed memory foam for space shuttles, that is logical. Customers have gushed about the wonderful comfort these beds offer since memory foam entered the mattress market.

Maintaining the quality of the best memory foam mattresses you have purchased became essential over time. At the end of this post, you will grasp the tips on how to maintain the comfort and durability of your memory foam mattress. read in advance;

1. Ensure Your Mattress Is Safe

Innovative mattress protectors. A mattress protector should fit snugly, like a fitted sheet, to prevent spills and stains. Encasement protectors, which cover all six sides and have a zipper, are also available (including the bottom). Sleepers with allergies or bedbugs can utilize the best mattress encasement protectors. Whether you eat in bed or not, a mattress cover is vital to protect your mattress from bodily fluids, skin flakes, spilled food, and drinks.

2. Lay A Firm Foundation

Having a base isn’t required for a memory foam mattress to operate well, but it will raise your bed to the right height. If you use memory foam mattresses, your base must be solid, level, and gap-free. Slats on a slatted base should be no more than 2.75 inches apart to prevent uneven mattress wear. If the slats are too far apart, you’ll need to buy extra or use a plywood board.

3. Prevent Pets And Children From Jumping

This counsel is direct. Pets who roam freely and lie on the bed stimulate the spread of germs, insects, and bacteria where you sleep. The perfect situation is when you meet a nice and cuddly bedmate. The worst-case situation is parasite eggs nearby about to hatch. It’s encouraged to ban youngsters under 8 from jumping on beds. Bouncing on the bed is not only hazardous, but it also damages the mattress. The memory foam is overworked by the quick up-and-down movements, which don’t prolong its life.

4. Rotate Your Mattress Regularly

It’s common if you’ve heard of this advice, but have you ever put it to use? Rotate your memory foam mattress 180 degrees every season, starting right away. This method is based on the idea that sleeping in the same spot on the mattress every night could be uncomfortable and lead to a concentration of wear and tear in that area. It should be noted that certain high-end made in the USA mattress producers make mattresses that don’t need to be turned.

5. Make Your Mattress Clean

Your memory foam mattress may be protected against sweat, dust mites, and other allergies by vacuuming it at least twice a year. Start by sprinkling baking soda on your stripped mattress since the longer it remains there, the better. A few drops of essential oil are an optional addition. At some point, take out the vacuum and completely remove the baking soda using the upholstery attachment. The tufts, seams, and areas between the mattress and foundation are known to be dust mite havens.

6. Do Not Make Your Bed

You did indeed read that correctly. While it might appear illegal to put off making your bed, it is not recommended. Delaying making the bed gives your memory foam mattress and linens time to breathe, giving any moisture that may have accumulated throughout the night a chance to evaporate.

Continue Reading